Bunker is another proof that Bangkok dining scene is just getting better and more creative with a surprisingly fresh touch from overseas young generation of chefs. Bunker is a 3 floor restaurant tucked in the far corner of Sathorn Soi 12, a small street getting really trendy. The design, as the name hints, is mostly plain grey concrete with a lot of soft lighting, creating a very warm and cozy atmosphere. Each table seems to be isolated in its own intimate light cone.
The restaurant is packed on weekend because that is exactly the feeling you get when you go to Bunker: this is where you want to be on a Friday night to unwind after a long working week. It’s the perfect place to go with friends to had great food, great wines and just be yourself, finally.
Before we even talk about how good the food is, a special mention goes to the team at Bunker (I don’t like the word ‘staff’). From the instant you step in and at every moment of your dinner, the team is attentive and friendly, but never in the way. With a full house I don’t know how they manage to be efficient, fast and smiling, but they do. Always checking if everything is perfect, advising on the wine or describing the food, it’s probably the best service I received in Bangkok. It is even the first time someone asked if the music was not too loud for us, considering that there are so many other guests in the room (and music wasn’t loud).
Most important is of course the one that brings the restaurant its real soul: the young but extremely talented and modest Arnold Marcella, formerly from The Elm in New York.
On that day there was a choice between the set menu and à la carte, but a seven-course set menu looked a little intimidating. So we just ordered 5 dishes and 2 desserts for 2, which was perfect since dishes are quite small. We started with 4 oysters from Blackman Bay Tasmania (135 baht per oyster), a Wagyu beef tartare prepared just right, meaning the beef being Wagyu, the chef didn’t overwhelm it with too many condiments as it’s often the case. As appetizer we also had a grilled beef tongue with snails… tongue and snails sounds weird doesn’t it, but it was excellent (425 baht). As for mains we went for a veal agnolotti with black truffle (1,100 baht) and an Australian lamb shoulder (800 baht).
For desserts we had a delicious Tropical meringue with coconut, dried mango and passion fruit sorbet (300 baht) and a Malagos chocolate torte with black sesame, marshmallow and blackcurrant sorbet.
All the dishes were perfect at all levels, including the desserts which is often a weakness, so Bunker is a definitely a good contender to enter our upcoming Top 20 Restaurants in Bangkok!
Address: Sathorn Road, Sathorn, Bang Rak,
Tel: 092 563 9991
Open: Daily 6 PM–12 AM
Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends!